The Other Side of Chattanooga
By Susan B. Barnes


The grunge and grime that once darkened Chattanooga's skyline has been washed away, revealing a fresh, clean city that's ready to welcome visitors from around the world.

Over the last 20 years, extreme efforts have been made to bring life back into the city that was known as the "Gateway to the Deep South" more than a century ago, and more recently America's dirtiest city. But no more. Due to an $850 million riverfront downtown revitalization plan, Chattanooga is now a city that attracts residents and visitors alike to its eclectic museums, art districts and first-class restaurants, all the while maintaining its southern charm.

If you're staying in one of the many downtown hotels, be sure to hop on an electric shuttle-free of charge-to one of the many area museums. Chattanooga boasts the largest fleet of electronic buses in the nation and gives everyone visiting the downtown area a terrific option for getting around.

The privately funded Tennessee Aquarium opened in 1992 and became a cornerstone of the downtown area. The world's largest freshwater aquarium welcomes more than one million visitors each year to view the more than 9,000 animals that swim in 400,000 flowing gallons of water and fly and crawl in natural habitats.

Tennessee has more varieties of plants and animals than any inland, temperate zone in the world. As such, the aquarium focuses primarily on regional animal and plant life, educating visitors of the variety of freshwater fish that call Tennessee home, more species than any other state in the U.S.

A favorite among visitors are the river otters who frolic in the water, much to the visitors' delight. They "float around like ballet dancers," noted one guest. Another favorite is the temporary exhibit, "Seahorses: Beyond Imagination." These amazing animals float effortlessly through the crystal clear water, enrapturing all who come upon them. The sea horses we all recognize are juxtaposed with the weedy and leafy sea dragons. Did you know that the difference between a sea horse and a sea dragon is where the eggs are carried? The male sea horses - yes, males - carry the eggs in a pouch found on their stomachs, whereas the male sea dragons carry the fertilized eggs in a pouch found on their tail.

Whether young or old, all will delight in the wondrous creatures at the Tennessee Aquarium.

The International Towing and Recovery Hall of Fame and Museum is just a few blocks from the museum, but a world apart. Truck enthusiasts, car buffs and the like will feel right at home in this museum that opened in 1995.

When new-fangled automobiles were introduced, Ernest Holmes quickly realized the need for a device to rescue stranded cars from deep mud holes and embankments. When he created the first twin-boom wrecker-a Cadillac-in 1916, he was a visionary. Since his invention, the towing industry has taken off. In the early 1920s, the first car-carrier was developed and the first hydraulic twin-boom wrecker followed in 1953.

The museum houses 17 tow trucks/wreckers and two cars dated from 1913 through the 1980s, more than 1500 photos and the Hall of Fame, representing 16 countries and 198 inductees.

Down the street you'll find the Chattanooga Regional History Museum. This community resource tells the story of the tri-state area's daily life from prehistoric times through today with its permanent exhibit, "Chattanooga Country: It's Land, River and People." A great deal of focus is on the growth and influence of 19th and early 20th century business and industry in the region. Interactive, hands-on exhibits entice adults and children of all ages to learn about "Chattanooga Country."

Train enthusiasts will want to be sure to visit the Tennessee Valley Railroad Museum (TVRM), first opened in 1961. Today, the largest operating historic railroad in the South, created from an impressive collection of classic pieces from railroading history, proudly resides at the museum.

Steam locomotive 4501, built in 1911, is the pride of the TVRM. Equally impressive are Dining car 3158, built in 1924 that is still capable of serving full meals, and "Clover Colony," a 1924 heavyweight Pullman car that was once used by Marilyn Monroe.

TVRM owns 40 acres that include four railroad bridges; the museum follows some of the first rail lines in Chattanooga and the entire railroad has been placed on the National Register of Historic Places. Visitors have the opportunity to ride the rails daily April through October and weekends in November.

The Tivoli Theatre, an elegant historic showplace since 1921 and known as the "Jewel of the South," has been revived and is now home to the Chattanooga Symphony and Opera Association and welcomes a variety of road shows each year. From blues to opera to the best of Broadway, be sure to get tickets to see a performance while you're in town; you'll be glad you did.

The Bluff View Art District, just outside downtown and overlooking the powerful Tennessee River, has been transformed into a beautiful showcase for local and international artists. Nestled side by side are fabulous restaurants such as the Back Inn Café, voted Chattanooga's most romantic restaurant; a European-style coffee house, Rembrandt's; and art galleries and museums.

Stroll along the streets to the Houston Museum of Decorative Arts. Here you will find one of the city's most fascinating attractions displaying collections of 18th, 19th and early 20th century glass, ceramics, textiles and American furniture. The rare collection of glass, a personal collection of Anna Safley Houston, whom the museum was named for, is a special treat. It is reported that Ms. Houston once had a collection of glass pictures totaling 15,000, the largest collection in the world.

Across the street is the not-to-be-missed Hunter Museum of American Art, which boasts the finest collection of American art in the Southeast. Over 1,500 pieces make up the collection, including works by Mary Cassatt, Ansel Adams, George Segal and Helen Franhenthaler. Contemporary glass sculptures, collected in recent years, also make an impressive display. Because of the limited size of the museum, only 20% of the collection is on view at a time, with pieces rotated every two to four years. More popular pieces are on permanent display.

The serene River Gallery Sculpture Garden is a perfect place to go to reflect. Works for local and international artists adorn the grounds overlooking the Tennessee River. It is such an impressive garden; in fact, that the International Sculpture Center has selected it as one of 195 gardens worldwide listed in the center's "Sculpture Parks and Gardens Directory."

If it's a nice day, take a walk from the Bluff View Art District over the Tennessee River on the Walnut Street Bridge. The 2,370-foot bridge, originally constructed in 1891, was renovated and reopened in May 1993. Now the longest pedestrian walkway bridge in the world, it was once the only way to cross the river.

At the other end of the bridge you'll find Coolidge Park, the Chattanooga Theatre Center and unique shops and boutiques. Be sure to take some time to explore Coolidge Park, with its interactive and inspired fountain and antique carousel. When an old building was cleared out of the area, Chattanoogans insisted a park be put in its place instead of more development. The fountain features carousel animals spouting water, much to the delight of children playing in its refreshing streams.

The fully restored carousel features 52 hand-carved animals reminiscent of those found on the original machines. Bud Ellis and his students at Horsin' Around, America's only carousel carving school painstakingly carved the animals, including a leaping tiger, a well-dressed frog, an iridescent fish and Ziggy the Zebra. Before completing the animal, each carver wrote something about him/herself and sealed it inside. Over one million children of all ages have taken a ride since the carousel's opening in 1999. Bud says that riding a carousel is "something magical," and talked about two of his favorite riders, a 90-year-old lady with tears in her eyes and the blissful grin of a one-year-old.

In addition to all of these unique attractions, festivals and open-air events are held year-round throughout the downtown area. There's always something happening in Chattanooga. Make plans to meet this glowing debutante.

© Copyright 2004, Susan B. Barnes. All rights reserved.